Editor’s note: Maggie Small has “borrowed” Megan’s column for this week.
February vacation typically inspires dreams of skiing or flying somewhere warm. I chose neither and instead followed through on a promise made during a Skype “date” in the heart of winter last year.
As the Island Fellow on Peaks Island in Casco Bay, I made a promise to Megan that I would come to Isle au Haut for the week of February vacation. When I told people about my plans the overwhelming response was, “So, what exactly are you going to do for an entire week on Isle au Haut?” I had no doubt that I’d have a good time, but for those who were skeptical, keep reading.
Day One: The Island Tour: It’s a natural feature of island life to drive people around and show off where you live. The tour began by turning left out of Megan’s driveway towards “downtown.” We passed the one room schoolhouse, post office, town office, store and dock. We reached the end of the road, marked by a giant snow pile, and turned around to head the other direction.
As we drove, Megan pointed out where everyone lives. As the drive continued, I was blown away by the number of trees; a ridiculous reaction, I know. The next stop on the tour was the other end of the road and Head Harbor. We got out of the truck and I began freaking out; this may be the most beautiful place on earth.
Day Two: Black Dinah Chocolatiers: How Day Two could meet the thrill factor of Day One worried me at the start, but we pulled it off. Five students from College of the Atlantic arrived off the 3:30 p.m. ferry to visit with Kate and Steve, the owners of Black Dinah Chocolatiers, for a class project. They were going to spend the night at Megan’s, so we met them at the boat and headed over to Black Dinah for a tour.
Black Dinah started in Kate and Steve’s kitchen, and now they’ve expanded the operation to the barn out back where they are able to make, pack and ship the chocolate. After the chocolate tour we headed back to Megan’s house to make a pizza dinner. Nine people hanging out in Megan’s kitchen led to lively conversation that ranged from “What is it that you actually do on the island as a Fellow?” to “In my class about the history of apples…” Kitchens are always gathering places and on this night it was no exception; good food was accompanied by great conversation and a lot of laughter.
Day Three: Tuesday’s Table: A major social activity on Maine islands is community dinners. Each Tuesday night a free community dinner is served at the Isle au Haut store. In the front of the store there is a table and chairs set up and people begin to wander in around 4 p.m.
This week’s menu included hot dogs and homemade baked beans, biscuits and carrot cake with cream cheese frosting. A few people stopped in off the boat to pick up dinner to bring home and others took up a seat in one of the chairs. It’s a time for the community to come together and check in on island happenings. People talked about the Olympics, the snow and their upcoming vacations. A few grabbed some essentials at the store, and everyone helped put the table and chairs away and before long dinner was over.
Day Four: Library: The day started with us off making three dozen bagels. I know, what do bagels have to do with the library? Each week the Isle au Haut library is open Wednesday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. It’s a time for people to come together, enjoy a tasty treat and talk.
This week’s library visitors spanned generations; two young teenagers, one who spends the summers out here and the other came along for school vacation, and a long time islander. The conversation ranged from Egg Baby, an app where you keep an egg alive, to authors who wrote about the Revolutionary War. But for a brief moment, the conversation turned to Isle au Haut and the rope swing. In this moment the island brought us together physically, but also created an opportunity to connect about the love for the island and the amazing opportunities that it presents.
Day Five: The Keepers House: Megan and I were sitting on her couches when all of a sudden there was a knock at the door. Tracy and Julie, the inn keepers, were heading down to the Keeper’s House to take pictures and check on a few things and wanted to know if we had any interest in joining them. We jumped in the back of the truck and headed off down the road.
Eventually, the four-wheel drive couldn’t make it through the snow-covered road, so we trampled through the snow up the hill. As we were walking Julie pointed out two bald eagles flying above. Soon we came to the end of the road and there was the Keeper’s House and lighthouse. Looking out from the lighthouse you can see Vinalhaven and the Camden Hills. Again, I was amazed by yet another breathtaking view.
I didn’t go somewhere warm and I didn’t go skiing, but I spent February vacation in a place surrounded by breathtaking beauty and amazing people who were willing to open up their island to me. I’m thankful for Megan’s hospitality and very glad I followed through on my promise.
Maggie and Megan are Island Fellows on Peaks Island and Isle au Haut, respectively, through AmeriCorps and the Island Institute.