I got thinking about changing landscapes after a night spent going over old photos. Kevin Johnson of the Penobscot Marine Museum of Searsport came out to share glass slides of Swan’s Island made in the period from the 1910s to the 1940s. The Eastern Illustrating and Publishing Company traveled through rural New England and New York, capturing local landmarks and scenes for its postcard collection.
We had a grand old time debating over who owned what, when. We “oohed” and “aahed” over the wooden sidewalks (fancy!) and the impressive masted ships in the harbor. The lack of trees changed everything; islanders cleared out the shore, building homes and boats and burning the wood for heat. Without the familiar pines, buildings seemed taller and landmasses seemed shorter. It really messed us up a few times.
As a result of all this, I gained a new appreciation for my neighbor’s house. The Chetwynds own what once was known as the Ocean View Hotel. Their current home is recognizable as a portion of the original large building. The Ocean View seemed like an obvious enough name since the front of the house shares the view of the harbor that I see from my kitchen window. After seeing the photograph taken from the tree-free back of the hotel, I realized they originally had an ocean view on both sides.
The hotel was first built and run by Cap’n Bill (Captain William Herrick, 1841-1925), remembered as a “masterful old sea-dog.” In addition to the hotel, he owned a string of mackerel fishing vessels and a fine mustache.
An anonymous clipping written around 1921 describes his retirement to the hotel business, during which he still managed to catch a 7-foot, 11-inch halibut. The article called it “the largest halibut ever caught at Swan’s Island, which is as you probably know, the largest fishing hamlet on the Maine coast” (a little island pride for you).
Cap’n Bill was succeeded by his son Charles, of whom it was said, “He had a rocking chair permanently attached to his butt.” He must not have lasted long because Lilla Moulden bought the hotel soon afterwards. She lived there with Ray Stinson, who was a selectman for many years. Lilla fixed the building up, took in guests, did washing and ran a pie and ice cream shop. During this period there were dances at the hotel that raised money for the first island fire truck.
Marion Stinson told me about the hotel in her days.
“Mom took me to one [dance] over to Lilla Moulden’s and I raised heck I guess—she never took me again,” she said, laughing. “She used to take my brother; of course he’d fall asleep on the settees and that was fine, but not me, boy! I was right up and at ’em! We used to go in there and have pie and ice cream,” she recalled.
The Stonington High School band would come once a year.
“They’d play their instruments and everything. And you could hear them coming on the steamboat. It would be so calm and nice. And they would play all the way in the harbor.”
People who lived in other parts of the island would sometimes stay at the hotel before catching the steamboat in the morning. Business slowed during the Depression and the hotel joined many island industries in closing.
I realize my finances couldn’t handle a pie and ice cream shop within 70 yards of the house, but I have to say it’s an appealing idea.
Kaitlin Webber is an Island Fellow on Swan’s Island through AmeriCorps and the Island Institute.