Harvesting for Irish moss (Chondrus crispus), which 30 years ago and earlier was a seasonal occupation for some fishermen – historic photos in West Point show men using wooden wheelbarrows to bring it ashore to dry – has resurfaced as a potential source of income. FMC Corporation, located in Rockland, hoping to rebuild its Maine supply, has contacted seaweed license holders and Maine dealers who have the capability to hoist the moss from a boat and space to dry it.
Bob Waddell, owner of Quahog Lobster in Brunswick, which deals in lobsters, crabs and rockweed, says during big tides, he used to buy two truckloads a day of Irish moss, and that there was another outfit buying on Orrs Island. However, sea urchins became bountiful – “Irish Moss is their favorite dessert,” says Waddle – and the supply wasn’t sufficient for FMC’s needs. The company turned to Canadian harvesters to obtain more. Now, says Charles Siletti, who worked at FMC for 33 years, and during that time bought Irish moss and experimented with growing and harvesting it, the Canadian supply has dwindled, possibly due to encroachment of other seaweeds or pollution. No one is sure why.
Siletti says FMC asked him to act as consultant in helping it re-establish its network of Irish moss harvesters in the Northeast, which dissolved in Maine after FMC turned to Canada. “We’re trying to add stability to our supply,” he says, “and establish a constant demand for Maine moss. We’re hoping to purchase at least 300,000 pounds dry a year.”
The Irish moss season runs from May or June to September or October. Harvesters must buy a $50 seaweed permit. Harvesting is a low budget operation, says Waddle, requiring a skiff and specially designed rake or a net to drag for the moss. Harvesting is most lucrative during extreme tides, as the moss grows just below the low water mark to about 20 feet in depth. Its color varies, from white when washed ashore, to green and dark purple-red.
Nick Hathorne, who works for Waddell and sometimes harvests rockweed, says it is easiest to rake or drag for Irish moss between two hours before or two hours after low tide in pools where it has settled after becoming detached from rocks and ledges. Windy weather hinders harvesting, as it stirs up the water and makes it difficult to see the moss.
As of mid-August, Waddle was paying 12 cents a pound, considerably more than the one and one-half to three cents which used to be offered and the one and three-fourth cent paid in August for rockweed. He can accept moss from either a boat or from a truck. However, he emphasized that fishermen who want to truck it to him need to bring it in immediately, so he can spread it out to dry. If it is left in a pile overnight, it will generate heat and spoil.
Since the season is well along this year, Waddle has found that just a few people who are already harvesting rockweed have taken advantage of this new opportunity for income. He delivered his first 2,000 pounds to FMC in Mid-August. He and Siletti hope that next year, more harvesters will become involved.
FMC extracts carrageenan from the dried Irish moss. This gummy substance is made of very large molecules that remain dispersed and suspended in liquids without settling to the bottom. Siletti says the carrageenan extracted from Maine Irish moss is used primarily as a thickener, stabilizer, and gelling agent in food and food products like ice cream, evaporated milk and pudding.
For further information, Waddle can be reached at 725-6222 or Siletti at 596-6912.
Basic Irish Moss Pudding
(From A Field Guide to Economically Important Seaweeds of Northern New England, by Susan K. White.
White says that it has been traditional in coastal towns to use Irish moss to make puddings. The practice has been traced back 600 years in County Carregheen, Ireland.)
One-half cup fresh Irish moss, thoroughly washed in several changes of fresh water (or one-fourth cup dried moss)
1 quart milk
one-half cup honey or sugar
pinch of salt
one teaspoon vanilla (or almond extract)
1. After washing, soak the Irish moss in cold water – 10 minutes for fresh and one-half hour for dried moss. Place Irish moss in a doubled cheesecloth square and bring ends up to form a bag.
2. Bring milk to a simmer and suspend bag in the milk. Continue to simmer the mixture for 30 minutes. Press against the bag with a broad spoon to help release the gelling agent.
3. Remove the bag, and add sweetener, salt and flavoring. Pour into a bowl or a mold that has been dipped in cool water first. Chill until set.
Variations:
Chocolate or Carob flavored Pudding: After the bag has been removed, add two tablespoons of pure cocoa or carob powder. Be sure to check for sweetness and add vanilla and salt. A pure chocolate candy bar can be broken up and added instead of the cocoa, but use less sweetener in that case.